Changing the joint

[skullrot]

KJ,
I have an Aska Cue and want to change the joint over to a Uni-Loc Bullet, like the one on my Poison cue. Is this do able or would I be better off getting a venom shaft to fit it? Also, I would like to get the weight of this cue to the 19oz point. Finally, how much will something like this cost(changing the joint and weight).

This cue has "history" and I still like shooting with it. After getting my Poison cue I need to bring this cue (the Aska) up to its level.


Thanks for the info
Mike

[KJ]

Hi Mike,
Welcome to the forum.
Most cues these days are wght. bolt adjustable.
If you were to remove the bumper from the bottom of your cue, you would possibly find a wght. bolt underneath. This bolt could be replaced with one that is longer/shorter (heavier/lighter) depending on which way you want to go.
If yours is a cue that has no provision for a wght. bolt system, one can be installed. That is very do-able.

Swapping the pin in favor of a 'Bullet' pin, not so much.
The Bullet pin is very short. Not just in what you see above the joint, exposed, but also the portion that you don't see, below the joint.
The cue can support such a short pin because on that particular cue (Poison) the pin is set into phenolic, an integral part of the cue's forearm construction at the joint. It's not likely that the forearm of the cue that you'd like to install this pin into is similarly constructed (phenolic in the joint area). Wood alone will not provide an adequate base for this pin.
For this reason, I would advise against such a swap.
Is it do able? Just about anything you could reasonably want is do-able for the right amount of money. Is it worth it? The cost of such a conversion could easily exceed the value of the cue.

Addendum :

I remembered that I made a post on AZ Billiards forum back around Christmas time regarding the bullet pin. If you'd like to see this pin removed from the cue, please follow the link.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=125074

Scroll down to post #6

A typical Uni-Loc pin sits 2.1" into the forearm.

[skullrot]

KJ,
Thanks for the heads up. I will leave the joint alone then and get a shaft to fit it. I did remove the bumber and the previous owner had removed it and cant find it. What would be the best way to measure current weight of the cue? I know I have to find a scale that can measure in oz, but is it better to leave the cue together or break-it-down?

Thanks for all your help

[KJ]

Your choice. It's going to weigh the same either way.

[raptor]

Hello KJ, I was wondering what your take is on radial joints as opposed to the 3/8ths joint. I know some who like the 3/8th for the supposedly tighter fit because of the threading. But then I hear that some feel the radial pin is stiffer ...why I don't exactly know. I'd like to hear what you have to say about both joints.
Thanks,
Raptor

[KJ]

The purpose of the pin is to keep the shaft attached to the handle, nothing more.
I don't attribute much in the way of 'hit' to any pin. Almost every component of a cue, from the tip down to the bumper CAN have an influence on the hit and playability but the pin itself will have the less influence. I'm sure that some others will disagree but this debate has been going on for a long time with no definitive proof being offered, only personal opinion.
The mtrl. the pin is made from, IMO, will have a greater influence on a cue's playability than will the pins thread count. G-10 for example, which is unbelievably light as opposed to stainless steel, will affect balance point but other than that, I doubt you would realize a difference in the cues 'hit'.
Once the shaft is tight to the handle, how it got to tight is irrelevant.