Coring.

[Sev]

Two things I prefer. Full spliced cues. And builders that do not core their forearms.

Who currently is building in the traditional manner?

[KJ]

Sev,
Since you're asking me in my section, I'll proudly admit, I do.
Please feel free to view some my offerings on this site.

http://www.seyberts.com/catalog/KJ_Cues-160-1.html

I also have some full-splice blanks in stock to build from.
Thanx for your inquiry

[Sev]

Ooops. Sorry about that. Guess it should have gone into the the general discussion.

However I always enjoy talking to builders and brain storming on projects.
Did you happen to be as SBE this past spring? You look familiar.

Are you full splicing your own blanks or only short splicing at the moment?

[KJ]

No need to apologize. If you're going to ask Sey's CM about coring and full-splice, this seems like the appropriate place to do it.
If you're asking about other CMs that core and splice, then yeah, maybe the General Discussion forum will get you more responses.

I haven't cored anything yet because I haven't had a need to.
Not everything needs to be, nor should be cored, though I know of CMs that core everything. I have the tooling for coring, should the need arise, but up to this point, all the wood that I use is best left un-cored.

I don't make full-splice blanks, I buy them. It's more convenient.
I ran out of room in my shop years ago and building your own F/S blanks requires additional space & machinery which I just don't have.

I am set-up to do 1/2 splice forearms but that machine took the last remaining free space I had in my shop so it's a little tough moving around in there right now.
The reason you don't see more of my work out in the world is because I'm more devoted to doing the bidding of Sey's clients. I build a large volume of custom shafts and do the other various repairs that are needed. I also try to keep Sey supplied with an inventory of my current cue line(s) and it's come to the point where either there's not enough hours in the day or there's just not enough of me. Sleep comes at a premium.
I do believe I see light at the end of the tunnel though. Either that or it's the headlights of an oncoming train.

[Sev]

No need to apologize. If you're going to ask Sey's CM about coring and full-splice, this seems like the appropriate place to do it.
If you're asking about other CMs that core and splice, then yeah, maybe the General Discussion forum will get you more responses.

I haven't cored anything yet because I haven't had a need to.
Not everything needs to be, nor should be cored, though I know of CMs that core everything. I have the tooling for coring, should the need arise, but up to this point, all the wood that I use is best left un-cored.

I don't make full-splice blanks, I buy them. It's more convenient.
I ran out of room in my shop years ago and building your own F/S blanks requires additional space & machinery which I just don't have.

I am set-up to do 1/2 splice forearms but that machine took the last remaining free space I had in my shop so it's a little tough moving around in there right now.
The reason you don't see more of my work out in the world is because I'm more devoted to doing the bidding of Sey's clients. I build a large volume of custom shafts and do the other various repairs that are needed. I also try to keep Sey supplied with an inventory of my current cue line(s) and it's come to the point where either there's not enough hours in the day or there's just not enough of me. Sleep comes at a premium.
I do believe I see light at the end of the tunnel though. Either that or it's the headlights of an oncoming train.

Nicely put.
Space can come at a premium in a shop. Especially if there is not room for expansion.


Absolutely not all wood needs to be cored. Woods such as Amboyna or Thuya must be as they do not have the structural integrity to stand on their own.
What I dont like about coring is that it changes the harmonics of the wood and therefore the feedback. I personally would rather the cue being built with properly dried solid stock and risk future warpage due to stress release that may or may not be in the stock sellected.

Of course some argue that coring does not change the harmonics in the forearm. My responce is to play with an uncored peice of ebony. Though I realize ebony needs to be cored due to both its weight and dencity. At least in most cases.

What are your feelings to converting old BBC house cues?

[skor]

I'm not a cue builder but I think that when it comes to coring, it should be consider on an individual bases.

Eric Crisp of Sugartree who don't like to core cues had a nice insight about it saying that there should be an open minded approach to coring. Most people when they here coring always think about coring a heavy or unstable wood with maple to reduce weight or to strengthen the unstable woods and burls.
Eric suggested that coring could be used also to give a maple cue a more stiff hit by coring it with rosewood and other examples.

So one can argue that the tone and harmonic (at least a big part of it) of the cue comes from the core if a cue is cored.

Tony from Black Boar who studied the harmonics of pool cues core his butts from end to end, that's the big secret of the BB hit and feel.

Ariel Carmeli also core most of his cues and they play and feel great!

Some woods feel and play great as they are but if you like to play with light cues you can't have a cue with those woods.
Coring allow the players enjoy it all and achieve different and unique feel to pool cues.

The bottom line is keep an open mind and experiment with different types of constructions and wood.

[Sev]

I'm not a cue builder but I think that when it comes to coring, it should be consider on an individual bases.

Eric Crisp of Sugartree who don't like to core cues had a nice insight about it saying that there should be an open minded approach to coring. Most people when they here coring always think about coring a heavy or unstable wood with maple to reduce weight or to strengthen the unstable woods and burls.
Eric suggested that coring could be used also to give a maple cue a more stiff hit by coring it with rosewood and other examples.

So one can argue that the tone and harmonic (at least a big part of it) of the cue comes from the core if a cue is cored.

Tony from Black Boar who studied the harmonics of pool cues core his butts from end to end, that's the big secret of the BB hit and feel.

Ariel Carmeli also core most of his cues and they play and feel great!

Some woods feel and play great as they are but if you like to play with light cues you can't have a cue with those woods.
Coring allow the players enjoy it all and achieve different and unique feel to pool cues.

The bottom line is keep an open mind and experiment with different types of constructions and wood.

Oh agreed. I well understand that.
However coring can make for a generic feel to cues. When comparing apples to apples in component selection.
Its all subjective to each individual as to that type of hit and feedback we each like.

I have asked a few people that I know if they are going to core to do it with EIR or Brazilian in stead of maple for me. I usually end up in an argument of there being no difference.

My feeling is that a craftsman can achieve the desired hit and feedback by staying with traditional methods.

Of course coring also allows a builder to us woods that are not necessarily completely cured.