First cue... VM-40?

I'm going to be purchasing my first cue soon... and I really like the Viking VM-40. I just turned 18, so I don't really have a whole lot of money to drop on a stick, but the VM-40 seems like a pretty good deal. I've got a couple questions though:

1) If anyone has any general comment about this cue, I'd like to hear them.
2) Is it really that bad to use you main cue as your break cue, as well?
3) I noticed that on this site, you can only choose a max of 20oz in the scroll down menu for the VM-40... does a 21oz cost more?


Thanks in advance.
Scott.

[parrothead]

Well as far as general comments go, I own 3 vikings, and I have only ever had problem with the most expensive one. It has developed a buzz, but it still plays well. I have a VM-22, a VM-33, and a VM-38. I play and break with all of them. The only draw back that I have seen with breaking with your playing stick is that the tip takes some more wear than it would if you were just using the stick as a play stick. I don't know what caused the buzz in my VM-22, but it only happens if you tap the cue from the side not when shooting so I don't think that it was cause by breaking with it. As for the weight, Viking makes them up to 21oz for free, I think that maybe Seyberts has just over looked this option on their website, but I will let them chime in on that one.

I think that you will enjoy your new Viking a great deal, and if you take good care of it you will enjoy it for a long time. :)

[Sid]

Yep, 21 is not a problem. On some of the other brands, 21 is hard to get but Viking has a very cool weight bolt system that allows us to get about any weight. so if you would like a 21 oz Viking, just mention in the comments box when ordering that you would like a 21 oz cue. There is no extra charge up to 21 oz so we can fix you up.

[Jim]

It appears Sid and Parrothead have answered a couple of your points. As for breaking with your Viking cue, why risk it I can tell you that if you break properly, and keep the cue level with the table, it should not be a problem. But if you jack-up on the back end of the cue, then follow-through on your shot, and jam the tip into the slate table top, yes, you're going to have a problem. Keep in mind, if you jack-up the back end of the cue, and drive it into the tabletop, then you have a person weighing at least 150 pounds on one end of the cue, a slate-hard tabletop at the other end, and a 13mm wide piece of wood in between. Which one do you think is going to "give" first? Fact of the matter is, "breaking" is NOT a finesse shot. It doesn't take a fine-tuned cue to smash the balls around. So why risk it. Get yourself a breaker cue specifically designed for such a purpose, or use a house cue to break with. (NOTE: the VM39 has a collar on both halves of the cue. The VM40 has a collar on just the butt half. I believe tjhe collar does indeed add some strength to the wood around the joint. )