uni-loc problem

[McChen]

Hi KJ, I have a question for you. I've run into a very strange problem with a uni-loc QR joint. The shaft is an OB-1 customized with a Lucasi collar. The butt is a Lucasi L-E15. The problem is that the shaft doesn't screw onto the butt, the pilot on the shaft doesn't fit into the butt. I noticed the pilot on this shaft is slightly wider than my other uni-loc shafts, though it fits on every other uni-loc butt i have. And the opening for the pilot on the butt joint collar on this cue is slightly narrower. How should I fix this...should I modify/replace the shaft insert or the butt joint collar? I thought all the uni-loc parts and specs were standardized?

[KJ]

Hi McChen,
That's a new one on me, I mean that's a first. I would say that you would be justified in thinking that all Uni-Loc parts would be interchangeable. I don't believe that it's a problem with the Uni-Loc components though. From what I understand, the outside diameter (od) of the insert is interfering with the inside diameter (id) of the ss joint collar on this and only this cue. That would tell me that it's the joint collar on that particular cue that is the real problem, though not a big problem. Calipers would be real helpful here. There should be no bind or interference in that area at all. If there were any binding in that area, it would cause internal stress at the joint and the cue would roll funny at the joint. The joint would lift when the cue were rolled on the table even though the shaft and butt roll true seperately. But you can't even get that far if you can't put the cue together.

What needs to be done to correct this particular problem is to have the od. of the insert taken down just slightly to fit the jnt. collar. Ideally, you'd want to open the id of the jnt. collar but you'd have to remove the pin to do that and then after machining, re-install it. Messy. When I say reduce the od of the insert, I mean just slightly (.010/.020 max. total). If you had calipers, you could measure the id of the jnt. collar and take the insert down to .002/.003 under that. That would fix the problem. Do you know any friendly machinists in your area?

I'd do it for free if you pay shipping both ways. That's how easy it is to do, if you're set-up for this type of work.

[McChen]

I measured the od of the shaft insert and it is 12.84mm. All the other uni-loc inserts i have were about 12.50mm. I guess both the shaft and the butt are a little odd, one is slightly larger than normal and one is slightly narrower than normal. Hasn't been a problem, until I tried to mate this particular shaft to this particular butt. I was pretty annoyed at this problem, since I thought uni-loc was all standardized and interchangeable.
Thanks so much for the offer to help me with this, I don't know of any machinists around here. I'd definitely would be willing to pay for shipping both ways and even a nominal fee to have you fix this. I have a lathe, but it's not setup for this kind of work, plus I'd be afraid to try it even it if were, having no experience. I just use it for tips. I have a cue that I sent in a week or so ago to have you mate it with a Z-2 shaft, and actually I want to add a matched OB-1 to that while you have it, I need to call Seybert's about that. I can't send the shaft to you until I get that cue back, otherwise I won't have anything to play with in the meantime and league playoffs are about to start.

[McChen]

KJ, i spoke with Royce from OB-1 and he offered to fix it and pay for shipping, so I'm going to send it to him to deal with, since he was the one that originally built the shaft. Thanks very much for your kind offer though!
I just talked with Rick and I had him add an OB-1 to be matched to the cue that you already have. It is a 'Licos', ebony with cocobolo points. Actually I have a quick question while you have the cue....what is the joint diameter on that one?

[KJ]

Howdy,
Good to hear Royce will handle it for you. I'll have to measure the joint the next time I go to my shop. I'm just building the billet for the ring-work now. I picked-up the OB partial when I was at Sey's today. I'll get back to you soon. KJ

[McChen]

actually KJ, have you started on the Z-2 one yet? if you haven't, can you hold off on that one and just do the OB-1? I've been playing with a Z-2 for awhile, but am probably going to switch to the OB-1, so I may not go ahead the the Z-2 for that cue.
what's a billet, BTW?

[KJ]

The joint diameter of both the shaft & handle of your Licos cue is .8435".

At your request, I won't build the Z-2 but just the OB-1.

A billet is what deco-rings are made from. It's a tube of whatever mtrl.(different woods, phenolics, etc.) that is slotted lengthwise and inlayed with veneers, etc., turned round again and sliced into 'washers' of various thickness to be installed at various locations on the cue. Some cues have many rings.

[McChen]

thanks for the info on the billet, i never knew how rings were built. got any pics you can post of one?
how is the shaft coming along? i was wondering if you could also adjust the weight on the cue if necessary so that with the OB-1 shaft, the whole thing comes out to 19oz. i think there is currently no weight bolt in it, it should take a 7/16x14. if there's a charge for that, just tell rick that you adjusted the weight and have him bill me for it.

[KJ]

I'll adjust the wght.for you when I have the shaft done. Right now, I'm gluing the veneers together, there are 5 of them. Once I've inlayed them into the billet, I'll take a pic of the finished billet. On completion of the billet, we're about 3 days away from delivery to Seybert's.
Your ring-work is different than any I've done built to date. The black & white veneers are std. thickness but the cocobola in the center is .065" which is not a std. size for veneer. I'm having to mill that to correct thickness. When I'm done, the ring-work on your OB-1 shaft will look exactly like the ring-work on the handle and nothing should look out of place.