Inexpensive jump/break cues?

[Thelucasilord]

I am looking for both an injexpensive jump cue and an inexpensive Break cue. what recommendations can you all make?

[skor]

If you are looking for a combo cue (jump/break) then you should check out J&J jump/break cues, you can get them here from seyberts (although they don't have them on the web site)

To be honest the J&J cue will jump as good as top $$ jump cue and will break just as well as any cue with a phenolic tip, the only reason to get a high end break cue is if you're looking for extra performance like with the Predator BK cue or if you like to treat yourself to a cue that will also look good then you can go custom...

[PoolDad]

Hey Skor which joint do you recommend? I'm looking on their website and see wood and SS joints.

[McChen]

i second the j&j, it gives you big bang for the buck. that said, i also do love my bk2 :). all the j&j's i've seen were wood to wood

[skor]

I like the wood joint, it has a better feel but it might not fit in your case....

[Kory]

The one I like and suggest for a great inexpensive jump break is the Fury. It is ranked in the top 5 for break cues. I have jumped with this cue many of time to show what it can do and it works great and the best thing is it is under $150 with joint protectors.

[poohkiller]

I'd like to throw in another kudo for that Fury j/b. 7 out of 10 players around here use one of these and I have tried many of them.

Kory was right indeed, it really is a great cue to break - great balance - and also a good jumper due to the (reliable) phenolic+ferrule combo.

I can counsel it for anyone who wants one of the best break/jumps for the money.

Pooh

[cpilegis]

I have one also (FURY)



I put a G-10 one piece on the end cause its harder and holds chalk better

[skor]

I have one also (FURY)
I put a G-10 one piece on the end cause its harder and holds chalk better

And it damages the cue ball.....

[cpilegis]

And it damages the cue ball.....
Have you ever seen one damaged by a G-10?

[skor]

If the tip is harder then the ball then who will bear the mark of impact?

I saw some damaged cue balls from using some phenolic tips, there are different types of phenolic tips that have different hardness that depends on the base that used with the phenol, if it's harder then the type that is used for making the balls then it'll damage the ball

So I'm sure that the G10 will be even worst.

Besides if a phenolic tip is not hard enough for you to speed up the cue ball then you should work on your stroke and technic and not your tip....

Regarding the Fury Jump/Break cue, I've tried it and I don't like it, it doesn't break or jump as good as the cheaper j&j cues do and I also don't like that wrap (or any wrap on a break cue)
I have compared side by side the Fury, Predator BK2, Stinger and the Kaiser (the j&j with the wooden pin) and the Fury comes in last!
when it comes to breaking:
1. Predator BK2
2. Kaiser
3. Stinger
4. Fury
when it comes to jumping:
1. Stinger
2. Kaiser
3. Fury
4. Predator BK2 (mind that it's not a jump/break)

When it comes to Jumping with a full cue:
1. Stinger
2. Predator BK2
3. Kaiser
4. Fury

[cpilegis]

Have you ever seen one damaged by a G-10?

I guess the answer is no

[dags_lax]

I purchase 2 or 3 cue balls a year because of the pitting from breaking with a phonelic tip. I would imagine that if I had a harder G-10 tip that would create even more business for Seybert's.

As for Jump/Break combos, when compared to dedicated jump or break cues, I have yet to try one that does either very well. My recommendation, buy an inexpensive used cue, preferably with a bigger tip and a strong taper and put a phonelic tip on it. Then get your self a good jump cue such as the Mezz or Jacoby. My feeling is that an advantage to execute a jump with the balls a 1/4 of an inch closer is much more important than an extra 1/4 mph on the break.

[skor]

I guess the answer is no

I find it very interesting that you've posted the same picture on AZB forum and said it's a spare Joss shaft while here you say it's a Fury....
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=63472&highlight=G-10+BREAK

not to mention that everyone is saying the same thing (it will damage your equipment!)

[cpilegis]

I have one on a joss shaft which I use when I dont want to bring too many sticks out
5/16x14 size will fit my carolinas,schons ,jacoby,joss or falcon cue
Pic on azb is fury, also azb has pics of different one piece combos g-10 and phenolic
Would you like to try one
I fixed the post on azb for you

[skor]

Would you like to try one

No thanks, I got a big enough break with a leather tip, not to mention when I use my Predator BK2

[Thelucasilord]

skor...can you give me any tips on jumping w/ a full cue?? i just can't seem to get it to jump. all i get is back english...like a masse.

[skor]

well, it requires some practice....
and a hard tip will be very helpfull
If you're getting backspin then you hitting the cue ball too law and you don't follow through the shot all the way....
You have to remember that when jumping then your center ball is at an angle as well so if you hit bellow it then it's a draw shot



Basically a jump shot is a jump shot regardless of the length of the cue, the only difference is that a short cue is lighter so you can move it faster to create the action that is needed for a jump.
The taper of a jump cue also adds more power to the shot and again a hard tip is the most important thing to make it easy to jump.

To be honest since I got my first jump cue about 4 years ago I haven't practice jumping with a full cue so it's harder because I'm not used to it.

Here is a short clip of Corey Deuel makes a great jump (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7Mu0o-yTyQ) with a full cue....

[Thelucasilord]

Thanks for the advice skor

[Death Tent]

I purchase 2 or 3 cue balls a year because of the pitting from breaking with a phonelic tip. I would imagine that if I had a harder G-10 tip that would create even more business for Seybert's.

As for Jump/Break combos, when compared to dedicated jump or break cues, I have yet to try one that does either very well. My recommendation, buy an inexpensive used cue, preferably with a bigger tip and a strong taper and put a phonelic tip on it. Then get your self a good jump cue such as the Mezz or Jacoby. My feeling is that an advantage to execute a jump with the balls a 1/4 of an inch closer is much more important than an extra 1/4 mph on the break.

I don't have a real hard break, maybe 20 miles ph, but I'd like to get a BK2 and improve my break... would I start damaging my cue ball? Cos I'd only like to get a new one every 1 or 2 years... that wouldn't be good....

[Phantom]

You're the best skor! Before checking the forum I was cruising some sites for a solid Jump/Break cue - and I found this nice looking J&J sneaky pete. Hmmmm.... wonder if anyone on the forum has tried this? And here you are recommending it. Sweet. You guys are awesome!

[McChen]

a sneaky pete j/b or playing cue?

[dags_lax]

I don't have a real hard break, maybe 20 miles ph, but I'd like to get a BK2 and improve my break... would I start damaging my cue ball? Cos I'd only like to get a new one every 1 or 2 years... that wouldn't be good....

Lets me se if I got this right: You are willing to spend $300 + for a break cue but you balk at a $15 cue ball once every year or two?

[McChen]

phenolic tips don't damage cue balls in my experience

[jkregan]

it is a fact, an incontrovertible fact, that a hard object stuck by another hard object will sustain damage. If you play a lot of 9-ball you will find that the most worn balls will be the one and the cue. They are the ones that collide on every break.

A phenolic tip is as hard, or harder, than the cue ball. The cue ball has to sustain damage.

You aren't going to see huge pits or craters after one or two breaks but the damage is happening. It is in the form of small pits and eventually, cracks in the surface of the ball. Sooner or later, the pits will merge and become larger and more noticeable.

The phenolic balls, like Aramith, will last longer but the cheap acrylic will show damage fairly quickly.
.

[McChen]

but isn't that more from the balls colliding than the cue tip? if the tip is as hard as the ball, that would just be a like a hard ball collision. that happens much more between balls than the one break per rack.

[skor]

The break is the most powerful shot in the game (unless you use a really soft break....) the energy at the moment of impact between the cue ball and the rack is lower then the energy at the impact of the tip and the cue ball because some of the energy is transfered to heat (because of the friction with the cloth), the energy at this point (tip to CB) is also more concentrated because of the straight forward movement of the cue, the spin of the cue ball or any ball (even just a natural roll) when balls colliding "waists" some energy as well.
So it's more likely to damage a cue ball with the break tip. and as Dags said, $15 every year or two (or even 6 months) is not something which is too out of reach, just save one beer every month and you can get a new cue ball every few months....

[Thelucasilord]

Yeah but the problem is saving the beer!!!

[pool808]

how do we palce an order for the J&J break/jump cue since it's not the website.

[pool808]

but isn't that more from the balls colliding than the cue tip? if the tip is as hard as the ball, that would just be a like a hard ball collision. that happens much more between balls than the one break per rack.

I know for a fact that phloni tips CAN damage cue balls. We were playing nine ball and after i broke then i noticed a hole in the cue ball the size of the tip. The white part of cue ball came off.

[skor]

how do we palce an order for the J&J break/jump cue since it's not the website.

Give Seyber's a call
877 314 2837

[diiulio]

I see a few recommendations for the Fury, but it is a $100 cue. I came across the Cuetec sneaky pete for $60 and found the J&J for around $45.

I didn't see any recommendations for or against the Cuetec, any opinions?

Is the Fury worth double the J&J?

[skor]

The Fury looks nicer.... (although I don't like wrap on a break cue)
I didn't find the Fury a better break or a better jump cue then the J&J, I did like the Kaiser better (made by J&J and has a wooden pin).

I've only tried an old model of a Cuetec jump/break that had a leather tip, It was very hard to jump with it and it was just as any other leather tipped cue when I broke with it minus the fact that I hate the fiberglass coated shaft that get sticky fast and actually slows the break...

[dags_lax]

I have an older Cuetec (Mike Massey Devastator) jump/break cue. The cue is too butt heavy for my tastes. And like Skor I don' care for the fiberglass clad shaft. Also the quality of workmanship leaves a lot to be desired. The thin stainless collar at the joint spins freely on my cue. Not a performance issue, but .....

After installing a phenolic tip it is a decent break cue. But compared to a dedicated jump cues it comes up short in that aspect.

If you can pick something up like this cheap on the used market and get your self a dedicated jump cue you will have just as good of a break cue and a much better jump cue than most of the jump/break combos out there.

[pool808]

I see a few recommendations for the Fury, but it is a $100 cue. I came across the Cuetec sneaky pete for $60 and found the J&J for around $45.

I didn't see any recommendations for or against the Cuetec, any opinions?

Is the Fury worth double the J&J?

where did you find the J&J cue

[diiulio]

I found it a few places on-line, but here probably has the best picture:
http://www.billiardwarehouse.com/cues/jj/jj_page_2.htm

I was looking at the sneaky pete, but they also have the jump/break J&J.

I can't seem to find the wood kaiser joint that was referred to earlier. What is the benefit of the wood joint?

Jason

[skor]

The wood joint is lighter and gives a good solid feel, almost like a one piece cue



I have the same joint type on my Mezz Jump cue