Advice on refinishing a SP

[Mel_llama]

Hello,

I have a Tim Scruggs Sneaky Pete that has no clear on the butt. What type of clear is used for Pool cues? Would an automotive type product work? Any tips on applying the finish would be appreciated. Thank you.

Melvin

[KJ]

Years ago, and possibly around the time this cue was built, the finish of choice was lacquer. While it was a hard gloss finish it did have it's drawbacks, like yellowing over time and it would chip relatively easy. Over the past 20 yrs or so, acrylic urethane (automotive clearcoat) has become the standard. However, this is not a finish that you want to be messing around with unless you are a professional. It's very dangerous and very toxic. One of the by products, after mixing the components, is a tasteless, odorless, invisible gas that is akin to super-glue. Too much exposure and there is nothing on earth that can save you. Think about lining the inside of your lungs with super-glue. Walking dead. A Scruggs is a cue worth making an investment in and as such I would recommend that you have a pro do it. The prep work, the multiple sessions in the spray booth with wet sanding btwn. sessions, the buffing/polishing can all add up to a nightmare for someone that doesn't do it on a regular basis. Pay a pro, it will be worth your investment.

[Mel_llama]

Thank you for your advice. I will have a professional do the refinish. What should a service like this cost?

[KJ]

Hello Mel_llama,
Depending on who you have do the job I'd 'ball-park' the cost somewhere btwn. $75 & $150. Shop around and ask questions. It's your right to do so.
Seybert's provides this service and I pride myself on my finish work.

[koenig]

Could superglue work to cover a foot of a cue? I mean while rotating, applying and even out?

He, he NOT an expensive cue that is.

[KJ]

koenig,
There are a number of cuemakers that use CA (super-glue) as a finish, whether it be spot repair or the whole cue, however, I'm not one of them. It makes a good seal coat and it will polish but it's brutal to work with. I have used it on larger areas and as I was told, spray the area to be finished with accelerator then with the cue rotating, apply the CA in a stream btwn. the rotating cue and a rag, moving from one end of the area to the other. The CA will immediately harden on contact with the cue in a 'hot' flash giving off fumes that will drive you from the room. Applied incorrectly, you could set the rag on fire. That's when you know you're not doing it right. Since you've got the ability to turn the cue I think a better choice for what you want to do is Krylon Acrylic Clearcoat. It dries quick, you can lightly wet-sand btwn. coats and over time you can lay on about as many coats as you need. Take your time, lightly buff it out when you're done & I think you'll like the results.

[koenig]

Great answer!

And just about what I suspected. Thanks again.

[Phantom]

Hey KJ,

Ive got a sneaky pete that Im thinking about putting a stainless steel joint on, I suppose it will lose some of its sneakyness but all my other cues are 5 16/14 and I want then to be interchangeable. I cant find anyone in Toronto who can do this. Can I send my cue to you guys? Roughly how much would this cost? Any advice you could give would be appreciated.

Thanks

[KJ]

Hi Phantom,
Yes I can certainly install a steel joint collar for you. You have a couple of options. The standard SS jnt. collar weighs approx. 1 to 1 1/4 oz. which would give you more forward weighting but you would lose the wood to wood contact at the jnt. As of late, a SS sleeve has been introduced that is much lighter and still retains the W/W contact at the jnt. Once the cue is assembled, you can't tell by looking, which is which. Food for thought. Once you've made a decision, call Rick at Seybert's for pricing & scheduling.