Tanar
06-11-2004, 12:40 PM
Okay, for all who wants to know how to re-tip a cue......
This is the way i do it, others may do it differently
Here is a list of my equipment:
Locktite Quicktite Gel Glue
Tweeton Cue Top Sander
Porper Mushroom Grazer
Paper
Tip tapper
2000 grit sandpaper (auto body finishing paper)
hockey sock tape
Tip clamp
Razor blade
Willard Dime/Nickel shaper
Tip shaper (the long curved piece of plastic with sand paper in it)
Actually, if you buy a Tweeten tip kit which retails for about $20, you will get the three of the most important things in there like the sander, shaper and clamp.
Anyway,
1. Wrap the ferrule in a single layer of hockey sock tape, trying to get the tape as close to the top of the ferrule as possible. Don't use scotch tape as the glue leaves a sticky residue that you then have to clean off.
2. Wrap the shaft directly below the ferrule with a 3 X 5" paper. This is so the clamp won't leave a ding in the shaft when you put it on. I use notepad paper that I keep near my telephone.
3. Cut the old tip off with the razorblade, trying to cut it as close to the ferrule without cutting into the ferrule.
4. Use the sander to sand the tip residue off and sand the ferrule flat.
5. Use the tip tapper and LIGHTLY scuff up the top of the ferrule. Don't tap it, twist it along the top. Again, LIGHTLY. You don't want to gouge the ferrule. This will give the glue something to adhere to. Especially on the Predator ferrules as glue has a hard time with their ferrule material. The ferrule should feel kind of pebbly.
6. Sand the bottom of the tip lightly to get the sealer off of the bottom.
7. Now give it the same treatment as the ferrule with the tip tapper.
8. Put a very small amount of glue on the bottom of the tip and on the ferrule and smear the two together. This will spread the glue, but most importantly, it will get rid of any air bubbles which can cause the tip to pop off. Make sure the whole surface is covered. Don't put too much on as the more glue you have, the weaker the bond, but on the other hand, don't put it on too sparsely either.
9. Place the tip onto the ferrule using your thumbs and forefingers to feel that the tip is centered. It doesn't have to be perfect, but you want about the same amount of overhang on all sides. This takes a bit of practice. Press down on the tip with as much force as your thumb can give for about 15 - 30 seconds.
10. Clamp the tip on using a tip clamp.
11. Turn the cue upside down and leave it leaning on something secure for about 10 minutes.
12. Take off the clamp, paper and tape. Test the bond of the tip and use your thumb to press hard on the side of the tip. If the tip doesn't come off, it is there for the life of the tip.
13. Use the mushroom grazer and carefully strip away the leather until it is flush with the ferrule. This is the trickiest part of all. It is easiest with a sharp blade in the trimmer. I have found that I had to stick a small piece of folded paper behind the blade to give it more of an angle so it would cut better. Be extremely careful not to nick the ferrule with the blade. It will shave away the ferrule quite easily. Try to keep the tip vertical with the shaft. This is why practice on a cheaper cue is essential.
14. Once you are satisfied, use your Willard dime or nickel shaper by placing it on the floor between your feet. Put the tip in it and twist it back and forth until you get the desired shape.
15. Use the shaper and finish off the shape.
16. Use the 2000 grit sandpaper and sand the edge of the tip flush with the ferrule. Do not to sand the shaft, but it won't do anything to the ferrule. This is what will make the tip look and feel like it just came off a lathe. I usually hold the sand paper in my right hand with only the tip and ferrlue in contact and rotate the shaft on my leg quickly on my left leg. This will generate heat and sand the tip and ferrule flush together.
17. Flip over the sandpaper and use the back in the same fashion. This will burnish and seal the tip. The sides should be nice and glossy when you are done. You want to generate some heat as this will seal all the layers of the tip together and keep it from separating.
18. All done.
I wrote this expecting you to know nothing at all about any of this. I have been doing tips for almost a year now and they look like they came off of a lathe. Things I have discovered through trial and error:
1. Elk master tips are hard to trim and will dull your razor blades very quickly. They also take about 4 times as long to trim. A $2 blade is not worth wrecking on a $0.50 tip.
2. Layered leather tips are easy to trim. The better the tip, the easier they are to do.
3. If you are going to practice, use Triangle tips, they won't dull your blades as quickly, they are as cheap and are better than LePro. LePro's SUCK!!!!
If you need any advice or help, just PM me.
You should be able to find the glue and tape at your local Canadian Tire (not sure what the equivalent is in the US). That is where I buy mine. Another good glue is Gorilla glue (available at Home Hardware and Rockler in the US), but it is extremely messy and even harder to get off if it gets on the ferrule. Also, if you get Gorilla glue on your skin, you have to wait until your skin wears off as there is no solvent for cleaning off the glue. I use this glue for pheneolic tips. I think that's all I can tell you. Like I said, PM me if you have any questions. The kit should cost you about $50, plus tips, but you should make that back fairly quickly. I usually charge $10 for re-tipping plus the cost of the tip. Have fun and hopefully I just helped you become another cue enthusiast.
Take care.
Dave
This is the way i do it, others may do it differently
Here is a list of my equipment:
Locktite Quicktite Gel Glue
Tweeton Cue Top Sander
Porper Mushroom Grazer
Paper
Tip tapper
2000 grit sandpaper (auto body finishing paper)
hockey sock tape
Tip clamp
Razor blade
Willard Dime/Nickel shaper
Tip shaper (the long curved piece of plastic with sand paper in it)
Actually, if you buy a Tweeten tip kit which retails for about $20, you will get the three of the most important things in there like the sander, shaper and clamp.
Anyway,
1. Wrap the ferrule in a single layer of hockey sock tape, trying to get the tape as close to the top of the ferrule as possible. Don't use scotch tape as the glue leaves a sticky residue that you then have to clean off.
2. Wrap the shaft directly below the ferrule with a 3 X 5" paper. This is so the clamp won't leave a ding in the shaft when you put it on. I use notepad paper that I keep near my telephone.
3. Cut the old tip off with the razorblade, trying to cut it as close to the ferrule without cutting into the ferrule.
4. Use the sander to sand the tip residue off and sand the ferrule flat.
5. Use the tip tapper and LIGHTLY scuff up the top of the ferrule. Don't tap it, twist it along the top. Again, LIGHTLY. You don't want to gouge the ferrule. This will give the glue something to adhere to. Especially on the Predator ferrules as glue has a hard time with their ferrule material. The ferrule should feel kind of pebbly.
6. Sand the bottom of the tip lightly to get the sealer off of the bottom.
7. Now give it the same treatment as the ferrule with the tip tapper.
8. Put a very small amount of glue on the bottom of the tip and on the ferrule and smear the two together. This will spread the glue, but most importantly, it will get rid of any air bubbles which can cause the tip to pop off. Make sure the whole surface is covered. Don't put too much on as the more glue you have, the weaker the bond, but on the other hand, don't put it on too sparsely either.
9. Place the tip onto the ferrule using your thumbs and forefingers to feel that the tip is centered. It doesn't have to be perfect, but you want about the same amount of overhang on all sides. This takes a bit of practice. Press down on the tip with as much force as your thumb can give for about 15 - 30 seconds.
10. Clamp the tip on using a tip clamp.
11. Turn the cue upside down and leave it leaning on something secure for about 10 minutes.
12. Take off the clamp, paper and tape. Test the bond of the tip and use your thumb to press hard on the side of the tip. If the tip doesn't come off, it is there for the life of the tip.
13. Use the mushroom grazer and carefully strip away the leather until it is flush with the ferrule. This is the trickiest part of all. It is easiest with a sharp blade in the trimmer. I have found that I had to stick a small piece of folded paper behind the blade to give it more of an angle so it would cut better. Be extremely careful not to nick the ferrule with the blade. It will shave away the ferrule quite easily. Try to keep the tip vertical with the shaft. This is why practice on a cheaper cue is essential.
14. Once you are satisfied, use your Willard dime or nickel shaper by placing it on the floor between your feet. Put the tip in it and twist it back and forth until you get the desired shape.
15. Use the shaper and finish off the shape.
16. Use the 2000 grit sandpaper and sand the edge of the tip flush with the ferrule. Do not to sand the shaft, but it won't do anything to the ferrule. This is what will make the tip look and feel like it just came off a lathe. I usually hold the sand paper in my right hand with only the tip and ferrlue in contact and rotate the shaft on my leg quickly on my left leg. This will generate heat and sand the tip and ferrule flush together.
17. Flip over the sandpaper and use the back in the same fashion. This will burnish and seal the tip. The sides should be nice and glossy when you are done. You want to generate some heat as this will seal all the layers of the tip together and keep it from separating.
18. All done.
I wrote this expecting you to know nothing at all about any of this. I have been doing tips for almost a year now and they look like they came off of a lathe. Things I have discovered through trial and error:
1. Elk master tips are hard to trim and will dull your razor blades very quickly. They also take about 4 times as long to trim. A $2 blade is not worth wrecking on a $0.50 tip.
2. Layered leather tips are easy to trim. The better the tip, the easier they are to do.
3. If you are going to practice, use Triangle tips, they won't dull your blades as quickly, they are as cheap and are better than LePro. LePro's SUCK!!!!
If you need any advice or help, just PM me.
You should be able to find the glue and tape at your local Canadian Tire (not sure what the equivalent is in the US). That is where I buy mine. Another good glue is Gorilla glue (available at Home Hardware and Rockler in the US), but it is extremely messy and even harder to get off if it gets on the ferrule. Also, if you get Gorilla glue on your skin, you have to wait until your skin wears off as there is no solvent for cleaning off the glue. I use this glue for pheneolic tips. I think that's all I can tell you. Like I said, PM me if you have any questions. The kit should cost you about $50, plus tips, but you should make that back fairly quickly. I usually charge $10 for re-tipping plus the cost of the tip. Have fun and hopefully I just helped you become another cue enthusiast.
Take care.
Dave