PDA

View Full Version : HELLLLLPP~~



guest
04-23-2004, 02:26 PM
Hi folks...i was directed here with questions about Viking Cues....so do ya think you cuold help me?

ok ... im planning on buying a VM32 with the ivory vinyl and a black/white speckled grip....but here comes the QUESTION DUN NUH NUHHHH...

ok i really like the feel of one piece cues....so i kind of want to go with join # 6 ..... but i heard that the wood might warp so then it won't be flat......?.........and also ........ if i got tah joint...would the vinyl stripes around the joint still be there (even wihtout the standard default joint that the cue would normally come with) ......

and alllllsoooo..... even if i had say, joint #1....would the stripes be there??/

sorry for so many ?'s but im very interested in Viking and i want to know more....so if you can help me....THANK YOU! :D

audiopro
04-23-2004, 03:21 PM
Mr. Guest,

I own several Viking's myself and I love them all. They are great cues and any of them would serve you well. However, I purchased a VM9 a while back and it comes with Implex to Wood joint. The joint on the shaft being all wood, no implex or steel. The cue feels great and I love the hit. However over time some stress cracks in the finish did occur. This is purely cosmetic and is actually hard to see. I am just extremely picky. I have two shafts for this cue and they both developed the same problem.

That said, it in no way is going to effect the cues play. Like I said, it is only cosmetic. The finish of a cue will age with time no matter what, this design just seems to help it along. However if I could go back and do it again, I may have chosen a different joint. As it turns out however my next cue is being built now with Ivory joints.

Hope this info helps ya out a bit...

Rob
04-23-2004, 04:58 PM
Greetings,

If you choose Joint #6 for a cue that has ringwork at the joint you will lose the ringwork to accomodate the wood to wood joint. As for your question about Joint #1, the ringwork would still be there (example. VM30, VM25 etc.) If you like the feel of a one piece cue then Joint #6 (wood to wood) and Joint #5 (implex to implex or in a couple of cases implex to wood) are going to be your best bets to replicate the feel of a one piece cue.

There are many things that can cause a cue to warp. For instance, things like moisture or exposure to heat or cold. Unfortunately, the cues will all respond in pretty much the same way if it happens. So regardless of which joint you choose the end result should be the same.

The wood Viking cues are made from is aged for 1 1/2 to 2 years and turned down periodically throughout that period to relieve the stresses on the wood. This is done to ensure the straitness of Viking cues. This, combined with proper care practices should ensure that you will have many years of enjoyment with your cue.

Unfortunately, I do have some bad news for you. The VM32 w/ Ivory vinyl has been discontinued. However, we do still have some left w/ Red vinyl and some left w/ Blue vinyl. The VM32's with Blue vinyl even have a small Ivory vinyl point inside of the Blue vinyl point.

I hope this information has been of some help to you.

Thanks,

Rob

wobster
04-29-2004, 04:04 PM
I had a viking VM40 (cheapest I could buy) with joint #5 and absolutely loved the hit. I became useless to me after buying a $650 custom cue. Rest assured Rob, my viking has a good home, and I will be buying more vikings in the future....