changing tips

[wobster]

What tools do i need to begin changing tips? I have a lathe for sanding, but none that will do tips, at this point. I am not looking for a big startup, as I will start out just doing my own for the time being.

I want something that will provide good results, but doesn't cost 150 either.

[Photoman]

Wobster,

See my thread, entitled: "No lathe?...try this"

All you really need to do a professional looking tip replacement is a portable drill, a joint pin to screw into the shaft and for the drill chuck to grab hold of, some gel type cyanoacrolate glue, a wood block with some sandpaper and a razor knife to cut the old tip off. If you want to be really exact in shaping the tip after it's installed, get a Willard "dime" shaper and spin the shaft and new tip into it, keeping it at a 90 degree angle. Wet the tip sides and burnish with a piece of cardboard or leather and it will come out looking like you did it on a $700 tip lathe!

[skor]

well, if you a lathe then all you realy need is:
1. a utility knife - to cut of the old tip
2. sand paper - to sand the top of the ferule from glue left overs(from the old tip)
3. glue - to glue the new tip
4. again sand paper to bring down the tip to be flash with the ferule
5. any tip shaper - to shape the tip
6. a piece of lether - to burnish the side of the tip

[wobster]

Well, I will have to try it. I don't know how the sides of the tip will turn out, but I will try it and see how it goes.

Photoman - don't have a cordless drill at the moment, all I have is the crappy corded one.

[Photoman]

Well, I will have to try it. I don't know how the sides of the tip will turn out, but I will try it and see how it goes.

Photoman - don't have a cordless drill at the moment, all I have is the crappy corded one.

What kind of lathe do you have? Could you thread a chuck onto the spindle? If not, your corded drill will work. Just glue a piece of sandpaper to a large block of wood or board that won't move around when you spin the side of the tip against it. Or, with a little ingenuity, maybe you could build a stand for the drill.

I'm elaborating on my "poor man's lathe" design. I just ordered two thermoplasctic bearing assemblies...one with a 14mm bore and the other with a 16mm bore. I will mount these on a 30" board with small bolts and wing nuts into slots that will be cut into the board for longitudinal adjustment. I'll make a base to position the assembly to the proper height of the drill and the cue shaft will be supported at two points intermediately along its length. The longitudinal adjustment will allow me to do differently taperd shafts, just by sliding the bearings to where they each just grasp the cue shaft lightly.

The thermoplastic should grip the shaft without marring the finish.
Here's the site from which I ordered the bearing assemblies.

Look at Pillow blocks and then find "pivot type"

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/

Total cost with shipping was $23.00

They were shipped today, so I should have them next week. I'll let you know how it works.

[wobster]

My lathe is a "poor man's lathe" as well, as I made it at work. It has a 1800 rpm motor with a cone that sticks into the joint on one end, and a bearing that snugs to the tip end. I am having my cue maker friend start looking for a lathe for me, as I also want to start changing ferrules. I should have one in about a month.

I am also working on a different end for for my lathe that will allow the tip and ferrule to stick out the end and be mounted inside a bearing with some sort of neoprene sleave, so it will not mar the shaft, but it will support it firmly.