the jump break joint

[guest]

is it necessary to get a jump break joint on the cue. im wondering how often i'll be using this option.

[Cardinal_Syn]

i'd rather have different cues for it's purpose...I'd have a different jump cue and a different break cue. In a jump cue you need something with i guesse alot of deflection, it doesn't make sense if the same cue is used for breaking...you need to be accurate when you break

[dags_lax]

To know what characteristics are desirable in a jump cue you need to understand what is the relationship between the bed of the table and the cue ball as well as the relationship cue stick and the cue ball.

Striking down on the cue ball causes the bed of the table give just a tiny bit. the cue ball also compresses at two points, where it meets the table and where it contacts the cue tip. This compression and expansion of the cue ball and the table happens in a very brief period of time. This rapid compression and absorption and return of energy is what causes the cue ball to jump of the bed of the table. Think about dropping the cue ball on a mattress. It doesn't bounce back up. Why? Because when the mattress absorbs the energy of the dropped cue ball and returns the energy so slowly that the cue ball doesn't bounce back up. There is nothing we can do to the cue ball or table during a game to change the way they react to each other so that leads us to look at the cue stick.

What is the best way to transfer the energy of a moving cue stick to the cue ball?

1) A stiff shaft. The more that a shaft flexes the longer it takes to return the energy to the cue ball. In fact the cue ball will already be off the tip of the cue ball before it "unflexes." How to make a shaft stiffer? Make it thicker. Most dedicated jumps cues have a strong taper and a 13.5mm to 14mm shaft.
2) The hardest tip you can get. Think of a softer tip as dropping the cue ball on a mattress. Dedicated jump cues generally have a phenolic tip.
3) A very, very light stick. This may seem to be just the opposite from what a person would think and they would be right. Assuming two cues traveling at the same speed a heavier cue will have more energy behind it. Now let me explain the rationale behind the need for a lighter cue. When striking down on the cue ball not only does the cue ball bounce away from the cue the cue also bounces away from the cue ball. This is the secret to getting the cue ball air born. A lighter stick will bounce back and get out of the way of the cue ball better than a heavier cue. The only time you want to "pinch" the cue ball between the table and the cue is when attempting a masse shot.

Before I got a jump cue I would look around for the lightest house cue, preferably one with a thin tip just in case I would need to try a jump. Think about it. House cues, especially those in taverns are built for durability. Hard tips and no tapers. While not easy I found less difficult to jump with a light house cue than my regular cue. For those without a jump cue this may be something to try.

[guest]

oooh, okay thanx for the detailed info! It was alot of help. so are you saying i shouldn't get the jump break joint on the viking?

[dags_lax]

If you mean a second joint between the handle and the shaft/butt joint I would emphatically say no. Viking cues generally have pro taper and tip and a tip of 13mm or less. Not the most desirable characteristics to have in a jump cue. You may also have a steel joint at where the shaft and the butt join. This style of joint adds weight to the cue, at least when compared to the other style of joints. A jump cue should be stiff yet very light. A final point to consider is the best tip for jumping a ball. A good tip for jumping may be suitable for the break (if you don't use a lot of spin) but will not work very well at all for other shots.

ok i understand now